Local restaurants lead the way in offering local, organic food

By Clay Fong

Meals made from organic and locally produced ingredients are all the rage among conscientious diners, and Boulder-area restaurants are increasingly able to accommodate this appetite at several price points. From the reasonably priced meatless sandwiches at VG Burgers to the nationally recognized fare at high-end eateries such as Frasca and The Kitchen, there’s something for just about every wallet.

For an ingredient to be termed “organic,” it must be certified according to U.S. Department of Agriculture guidelines designed to protect the purity of food and promote sustainable agricultural practices. Examples of the guidelines include requirements that farmers not use synthetic chemicals, such as certain pesticides, and that animals consume organic feed instead of any number of nasty alternatives. Where things can get a little confusing is that a farm can follow organic practices, as some do in the Boulder area, without being certified. In this case, their product might not be much different from something with the organic label.

Even if it’s not strictly organic, buying local produce creates economic and environmental benefits. If a local restaurant buys from an area farmer, dollars stay in the community for reinvestment instead of going to an out-of-state grower. The higher volumes purchased by restaurants, as opposed to individuals, can also create a more steady revenue stream for the farmer. Bob D’Alessandro, executive director of the Boulder County Farmers’ Markets, observes that the trend is towards more structured farm and restaurant relationships. While local restaurateurs seek out ingredients at the Market, he says, restaurants have arrangements with specific farmers in which the farmers come by their restaurants and drop off their food.

More restaurants are featuring dishes made from local ingredients as regular items, versus occasional specials. Among more affordable options, Modmarket features a vegan and gluten-free cashew butternut soup, spotlighting

Munson Farms squash. VG Burgers has successfully offered vegan and meatless sandwiches including bacon cheeseburgers and a tasty chicken ranch option. Local natural beef is a mainstay of the West End Tavern’s burgers, while local Long Farm pork figures into the Outlook Hotel’s ribs at the Blues and Green Restaurant and the Bloody Good Salad at Dish.

Moving up the price scale, opportunities to savor sustainable fare increase. Longmont’s Terroir and the Chautauqua Dining Hall, like an increasing number of eateries, profess their commitment to using sustainable ingredients. Boulder’s Arugula Ristorante and Salt Bistro also showcase such local organic standbys as Hazel Dell mushrooms and Long Farm pork.

Black Cat, under Chef Eric Skokan, has gone a step further by creating its own organic farm. Consequently, one can relish such choices as a “Salad of Lettuces that Survived the Frost” fresh off the farm’s Niwot acreage. Elsewhere, the Kitchen has built a reputation for its copious use of organic veggies, including Monroe Farm beets.

Nationally recognized Frasca has also generated raves, partially due to its dedication to drawing upon suppliers such as Red Wagon Organic Farm.

For those desiring the ultimate in back-to-the-land dining, featuring the best local and organic foodstuffs, Meadow Lark Farm Dinners is the place to go. This operation is based out of a school bus converted to a mobile kitchen that travels such venues as Cure and Red Wagon organic farms. At these locations, diners can enjoy a full-course meal of just-harvested fare. One is hard pressed to find fresher ingredients anywhere.

As awareness and demand for meals made with organic and local ingredients increase, area restaurants have risen to the occasion by purchasing or even raising their own produce. There’s more available than there has been in the past, and it’s not just limited to eateries serving up special-occasion splurges.

Respond: info@boulderganic.com

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